This afternoon, our trusty Honda Unicorn took us 10 km to a place called Suakholi where we each enjoyed a cup of chai. Our indulgence cost us a total of Rs. 20, or about 33 cents. Suakholi was a fairly frequent chai stop for Paul when he was a boy in the 1960's, and for both us when we lived here in the 1980's.
In both the 60's and the 80's, there was only one shop in Suakholi where chai could be had--in an aging mud plastered building. The situation has changed dramatically since we left India in 1990, and the new Suakholi at the junction of two roads, boasts at least a dozen shops where chai and other refreshment are available. This change reflects other significant changes that have occurred in the state of Uttarakhand.
Hundreds of kilometres of new roads have been built, connecting villages to towns and major centres. The vast majority of villagers still can't afford their own vehicles, but jeep-taxis, motorbikes and buses have proliferated. Villagers who formerly had to walk, can now travel great distances with relative ease, and for minimal cost. As well, the emergence of an Indian middle class, now more than 300 million strong, has led to exponential growth in the Indian tourist industry. The mountains of Uttarakhand are a huge draw.
There is still far too much desperate poverty, but on the surface it seems to us that standard of living and quality of life have improved considerably for most people here in Uttarakhand.
Just for fun, here's a set of slides showing the range of watering holes available in the new Suakholi.
How very cool. At our reunion in 2012 (Class of 67) a number of us had fun walking down to the Aglar River from Suakholi on the foot path that has not changed any in the last 50 years from when I hiked it so many time. I have pictures of drinking tea at the Suakholi of the 60's....what fun.
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